Known for splashy escapades and volcanic action, the Island of Hawaii also furnishes memorable hikes.
Collecting hikers like us from our resorts, Hawaii Forest and Trail’s driver-guide whisks everyone to laid back Hawi in North Kohala. Equipped there with day packs, water, towels, raincoats and energy bars, we transfer to a six-wheel-drive Pinzgauer. The Kohala Waterfalls Adventure begins.
Eric wrangles the open-air Austrian military vehicle along the coastal road and through a gate onto private ranchlands. Sitting on benches and gripping leather straps above our heads, we bounce along rutted tracks cutting across rolling pastures dotted with cattle.
Leaving the trailhead, our spirited group crosses a stretch of grassland, soon arriving at the first spectacular waterfall. At one planked bridge spanning a stream, a wooden flume built during the plantation era remains part of today’s irrigation system.
The trail leads us upward through a meadow before descending into dense guava forest and onto a restored terrace garden. Huge banana plants, taro, kava and other early Hawaiian plants again thrive. Pink ginger blossoms perfume the air.
We sample strawberry guavas while learning about the surrounding vegetation. Eric explains, “Hawaii’s state tree, the kukui, produces the oily candlenuts Hawaiians once burned for light.”
Bamboo walking sticks help us manage rocky, muddy trails. Up and down steep stone stairs and along trickling streams we tramp. Pausing, Eric points out a rainforest struggle: a strangler fig wraps a mahogany tree, aerial banyan roots attack from above, and wild orchids live atop its thick branches. At the last splendid waterfall, a deep pool proves perfect for an idyllic swim.
Back aboard, the Pinzgauer growls to a dramatic lookout. Seated at weathered tables, we gaze at stunning sea cliffs surrounding Pololu Valley. Deli sandwiches and sweet potato chips never tasted so good!
Two National Historic Parks offer exhilarating self-guided hikes. At Place of Refuge, the 1871 Trail starts at the oceanside picnic area just beyond the taboo-breakers’ sanctuary and royal grounds. Beginning on a sandy pathway, we wind past an old farm where squash vines produce bottle gourds. Now rough lava, the trail meanders between picturesque Alahaka Bay and basalt cliffs Mark Twain described as ‘a petrified Niagara.’ Atop a stone ramp built over lava tubes, we catch our breath under a spreading kukui. Breezes cool us. Water sips refresh. Turquoise waters crash far below.
The trail continues alongside lava walls and platforms of an old coastal village. Beyond the park’s metal gate, the trail veers inland. Becoming increasingly overgrown with thorny kiawe, locals grin, “This trail takes us down to Ho’okena for swimming.” We return to Place of Refuge and snorkel at Two Step nearby.
At Kaloko-Honokohau, we hike a 6.5-kilometre loop starting on King’s Trail. Sometimes bordered by flowering native plants, this ancient pathway takes us across hot, desolate lava flows. Turning onto an old ranch road, we arrive at 11-acre Kaloko fishpond. Its restored 244-metre seawall now encloses an enormous wetland bird refuge and revitalized fishery.
A coastal trail leads us forward under mangrove trees and over a long lava rock seawall to Honokohau Beach. Countless green turtles graze in the shallows and bask on the golden shore. At the end of the beach, plovers, heron and nene scavenge amid shallow tide pools.
Heading inland on a forested trail, we investigate a petroglyph field, finding etched stick figures and long rifles. Above us, redheaded parrots raucously squawk. A passing ranger says they’d escaped some crates years ago and easily adjusted! Approaching the visitor centre, we review storyboards illustrating how early Hawaiians similarly adapted and thrived.
Hiking in Hawaii’s expansive landscapes reveals another side of paradise.
For more information, see www.hawaii-forest.com, www.hawaii.com and www.gohawaii.com
