Revisiting Quebec City, we settle into a charming boutique hotel in a historic neighbourhood. Our old friend Claude meets us there and shows us around his art-full city.
Vieux Port abounds with thought-provoking art installations. We first study a rocket shaped camp-trailer parked beside Old Port Market. Our trio concludes it perfect for space age bivouacs. Across the boulevard, steel posts support a large blue upside-down trash bin. Passing beneath the passageway, golden streamers dangling from its black interior tickle our cosmic fancies. At the wharf, thin dockside wires hoist 12 birch bark canoes, hovering dreamlike above the water.
Entering Quebec’s oldest district, Claude tells us how brothels and saloons have evolved into respectable antique shops, art galleries and bistros. The modern Museum of Civilization stands at the edge of Lower Town. Cartoons from Adventures of Tin Tin plaster windows promoting its exhibit of Herge’s fine artwork. A living oak tree sporadically rotates nearby, prompting further contemplation. Figuring out the mechanics, we ponder the artist’s intention, deciding this kinetic art conjures nature’s seasonal magic.
Once welcoming immigrants, the bust of Louis XIV now greets visitors like us at Place Royale. And 17th century Notre-Dame-des-Victoires stands on the foundation of Samuel de Champlain’s 1608 trading post. Tin-roofed, rainbow-coloured homes surround this early marketplace. Two of these heritage houses merged into Centre d’Interpretation, exhibiting artifacts, pictures and documents regarding this 410-year old city.
Several huge murals reflect the city’s rich history. The Mural of Quebecers depicts the province’s most important figures and monumental architecture. Chris identifies Cartier and Champlain; I point out Lord Dufferin. Just beyond, a maze of cobbled streets leads us into Quartier du Petit Champlain. Shops in this old commercial district sell souvenirs and Quebec-made products. On the side of a two-storey building, a second mural portrays early Irish shipbuilders’ families at work and play.
At the former home of French explorer-mapmaker Louis Joliet, a funicular cable car carries us up to Upper Town. There, sporting Medieval turrets, massive towers and ornate gables, Chateau Frontenac Hotel reminds us of early French palaces. A leggy bronze elephant stands in front, tempting passersby to visit this landmark hotel’s Dali Exhibition.
Meandering further along the wide and lengthy Dufferin Terrace, we view panoramas of Lower Town, the basalt-blue St. Lawrence River and nearby city of Levis. At the opposite corner of Hotel Frontenac, Claude points out an unusual monument. This soaring pillar commemorates opposing generals who died fighting for Quebec in 1759. One side acclaims Wolfe, the British victor, with an English inscription. The other honours France’s Montcalm in French.
Outside city walls, costumed students re-enact these generals’ critical battle on the grassy hillsides of Plains of Abraham. Within 108-hectare National Battlefield Park, General Wolfe’s statue stands on the spot where he died. Just beyond, National Museum des Beaux Arts showcases Quebec’s greatest art treasures, past and present.
The upper walled city encompasses many elegant buildings, including magnificent Notre-Dame du Quebec, old City Hall and Seminary of Quebec boasting two silver steeples. There, we learn how its priests founded Quebec’s education system in 1663. It now houses Musée de l’Amerique Française, Canada’s oldest museum.
North America’s oldest hospital, Hôtel-Dieu de Québec, displays still another significant mural. Covering 420 square metres, La Fresque de l’Hôtel-Dieu de Québec provides a series of windows portraying Quebec’s dedicated doctors and nurses and their inspiring accomplishments. These intriguing panels educate visitors on the history of care and medical techniques in Canada.
Our art-full discoveries are celebrated with Québécois comfort food, French fries covered with fresh cheese curds and rich brown gravy. We savour this poutine, as well as our time in Quebec City!
Discover Quebec City’s Possibilities at www.quebecregion.com/en
