Seeking a Vancouver adventure, pedal pal Fred and I join Cycle City Tours. Assigned appropriate bicycles and helmets, guide Nick leads us with six other cyclists down Hornby’s busy bicycle lane to Seaside Greenway. After pedalling between the new west and east convention centres, Nick stops at a waterfront park and extols this bikeway. “Following the shoreline, cyclists will enjoy 28 uninterrupted scenic kilometres.”
Our route winds pleasantly along Coal Harbour into Stanley Park. Pausing at another viewpoint, Nick touts some world-renowned architecture. “These lofty glass buildings represent Vancouverism, a design accommodating topside condos, middle floor hotels and bottom level shops.” He also notes settings used in popular movies, earning Vancouver’s nickname: Hollywood North.
Nick’s degree in anthropology is evident. Opposite Deadman Island, he interestingly recounts how First Nations once placed their dearly departed on its high tree branches. And at Totem Park, he points out the later used mortuary pole, complete with platform.
“This collection of poles represents several B.C. coastal First Nations. Most welcomed visitors, like that short longhouse post. Its raven identifies the clan. Several tell stories. Three have legendary thunderbirds, which caused storms, fearsome eyes blinking lightning,” explains Nick. “That unpainted pole includes Rosa, last native woman born in Stanley Park. And her son carved this memorial.”
Rather than continue under Lion’s Gate Bridge on the seawall, we push our bicycles up a woodsy secondary trail. During a breather, Nick discusses the forest environment beside a huge cedar stump with thriving seedlings. At Beaver Lake, he recounts park workers’ clever dealings with beaver dam projects, while wood ducks paddle among pond lilies blooming in vibrant purple. Beyond the lake Nick points out a lofty cedar. “That’s Cedric! Stanley Park is about 10 per cent larger than New York City’s Central Park and more natural, home to old-growth evergreens like Cedric. And look, there’s an eagle nesting atop that nearby fir.” Coasting out of the forest, we skirt third beach and soon exit Stanley Park.
Passing English Bay’s popular art installation A-maze-ing Laughter, we pause to admire the inukshuk created to welcome 2010 Winter Olympics visitors. Looking across the water, Nick helps us visualize Seaside Greenway winding toward distant Spanish Banks.
After a short wait under Art Deco Burrard Bridge, a colourful electric ferry takes us to Granville Island, our lunch stop. There, Fred and I buy some Mexican food at a Public Market stall. While savouring enchiladas in the sunny courtyard, a busker entertains, belting out golden oldies.
Spinning onward along False Creek, I learn why its low-rise community is so attractive: it’s zoned 20 per cent parkland. Passing the Science Centre’s silvery geodesic dome and onto Quebec Street, we enter North America’s third largest Chinatown.
Golden dragons top red street signs brandishing names in English and Chinese. A statue of China’s first president, Sun Yat Sen, stands outside his namesake gardens, a legacy from Vancouver’s 1986 World’s Fair. Inside, we behold its wondrous rockery, moon bridges, exotic plants and koi-filled ponds. Outside, ginkgo trees and brightly painted buildings line Chinatown’s main street. In the distance stands the revamped Millennium Gate.
Our last stop is in historic Gastown, where everyone gathers around a large bronze sculpture of Gassy Jack atop a whiskey keg. “This is Vancouver’s legendary founder! When his New Westminster saloon burned down, a log mill owner invited Jack to relocate here. Arriving in a boat with a big keg of whiskey and his native wife, he promised workers all they could drink for building his new saloon,” says Nick. “Thus Vancouver began … and partied.”
Our tour proves the perfect way to learn about this city’s delightful culture, natural environment and fascinating history.
