Leaving Stratford-Upon-Avon, we set out along Shakespeare’s Way shuttling bags ahead. Our walk will approximately retrace the Bard’s own cross-country route to Oxford.
Across pasturelands above the river Stour, a roadway ultimately leads to our Alderminster lodgings in an 18th century coaching house. In time for Sunday roast, day one ends in scrumptious style.
Hearty English breakfasts launch mornings with eggs, sausages, mushrooms, baked beans and grilled tomatoes. Averaging 16-kilometres daily, we parallel fences, climb stiles and pass through kissing gates into charming villages.
Though maps guide us, way markers with Will’s image confirm our direction. Especially critical at footpath junctions – and often obscured – locating them prompts excitement and relief. Still, late one afternoon, we’re lost in an immense wheat field. Finally, we head toward some power lines, break through a hedge and follow a riverside trail to the bridge into Shipston-on-Stour. Easily locating our accommodations, we celebrate our escape with steak and ale pie.
From hedges threaded with wild roses and blackberries, morning birdsong cheers us onward. One handsome stag leaps from his hideaway and bounds across the barley. Stopping in Long Compton, we buy fresh Cornish pasties and sausage rolls before continuing along Vicarage Lane to a family farm. Restful digs in their renovated barn annex suits our rustic picnic dinner and Scrabble evening.
Breakfasting in the stone farmhouse, we discuss our 21-kilometre challenge ahead. Our host beams, “Shorten yer distance a bit … ride inta Chipping Norton wit me.” His car putts up a back road above Long Compton and onto Oxfordshire’s limestone ridge. At the Rollright Stones, he explains the Neolithic ceremonial circle of 77 stones called King’s Men: “A witch turned an ancient king and his army ta stone here.” Across the road in Warwickshire stands the King Stone with his Whispering Knights, five stones leaning together as if plotting.
Dropped on Church Street, we investigate a 12th century Norman church and picturesque almshouses lining the uphill roadway. Stopping at a farmers’ market along the main street, a jolly baker directs us toward the trail, once part of the old London Road.
Our trail winds through meadows filled with wildflowers, hamlets of thatched cottages with rose covered walls and across more pastureland. From St. Kenelm’s Church in tiny Enstone, a pre-arranged taxi transfers us to nearby Churchill and cozy rooms in a transformed 19th century blacksmith forge.
Next morning another cab delivers us to a spot amid ancient forests. Our driver points, “Just down this lane, yer back on track.”
Skirting King’s Wood and Wooten Wood, the trail continues over hilly countryside through forested valleys to the Stonesfield Steps, a steep wooden stile spanning Blenheim Estate’s massive dry-stone wall.
Crossing sheep-filled fields, we arrive at the Column of Victory and sight Blenheim Palace below. A grassy slope leads onto a paved pathway and a large green door into historic Woodstock. Ivy clad stone buildings surround the town-square; our heritage inn lies around the corner.
Our day at the World Heritage palace becomes a highlight. One multimedia presentation features a beloved housemaid, who guides us through bedazzling upstairs rooms, while affectionately sharing family stories. We learn how Queen Ann awarded John Churchill this monumental estate and the title First Duke of Marlborough for his Battle of Blenheim victory in 1704.
Our last trail day takes us through Bladon’s churchyard where Sir Winston Churchill, a celebrated descendent, lies beside Lady Clementine Churchill. Ascending a long farm road bestows magnificent panoramas; down through a wooded arcade into Yarnton reveals Churchill ancestors entombed in its medieval church. From Duke’s Cut, Oxford Canal towpaths carry us into bustling Oxford, where our exhilarating 96-kilometre walking holiday ends. Shakespeare would have continued to London.
For more information, see www.macsadventure.com and www.shakespeare-country.co.uk. BritRail Passes, best buy in Canada from ACP Rail International: www.acprail.com.
