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Ostia Antica: Rome’s ancient seaport

Our Viking Star cruise excursion takes us along Italy’s scenic coast to ancient Ostia, at the mouth of the Tiber River. Along the way, guide Sophia tells us how Rome’s original seaport flourished between the 1st and 3rd centuries.
ostia
With a wood-fired oven, this bakery produced fresh bread for 2,000 people daily.

Our Viking Star cruise excursion takes us along Italy’s scenic coast to ancient Ostia, at the mouth of the Tiber River. Along the way, guide Sophia tells us how Rome’s original seaport flourished between the 1st and 3rd centuries.

Entering the archeological site, Sophia explains how citizens were obliged to bury their dead outside city walls. This Necropolis reflects Ostia’s prosperity. Ornate sarcophagi and large redbrick columbarium storing elaborate urns border the ancient roadway.

Beside the crumbled city gate, she tells us the nearby statue representing the winged goddess Victoria once topped its arch. Passing remnants of former shops along Decumanus Maximus, we soon arrive at the Baths of Neptune. From an elevated platform, we admire spectacular black-and-white mosaic floors. Horse-like sea creatures, hippocampi pull Neptune’s chariot amid swirling dolphins, sea nymphs, armed tritons and freakish serpents. On an adjacent floor, wife Amphitrite rides another hippocampus. Another chamber’s floor pictures naked wrestlers and boxers with spiked gloves. And beyond, marble columns of a former portico embrace a sporting area.

A side street’s wall mosaic shows text in Latin and a flask, encouraging thirsty customers to drink. “This proprietor’s thermidor served wine and hot food,” Sophia explains. “Customers paid at this marble counter and probably enjoyed their meal while relaxing on the stone benches in the courtyard.”

At the amphitheatre, we pass through a long corridor and emerge near centre stage. Three tiers of seating rise beside us. “Finished during the reign of Augustus, it was enlarged in the 2nd century to accommodate over 4,000 spectators,” recounts Sophia. “An awning suspended from poles shaded the seats.” Alongside the stage’s fragmented back wall, theatrical masks recall its ancient productions.

We exit toward the Tiber’s former waterfront. Warehouses’ mosaic floors remain picturing triangular-sailed galleys, sea creatures and port components. “Grain, olive oil and other goods were stored here,” Sophie says. “Slaves later reloaded them onto barges to be towed by oxen onward to Rome.”

Our group heads next to a large bakery, one of several. Just off Decumanus, we stroll a lane under Roman archways binding the surrounding high thick walls. House of the Millstone boasts ten basalt millstones. Hoof prints on stony floors indicate how mules rotated the conical caps grinding out flour. In another hall, lava bowls are slotted for blades used in kneading the dough. Basins recall water’s importance in this process. Behind the chamber, we see the huge wood-fired oven that produced fresh baked bread for 2,000 people daily. A small adjoining room encloses a shrine’s mural of gods, perhaps to seek divine help in baking.

The lofty red brick Capitolium dominates the Forum, Ostia’s main square. Dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva, Hadrian’s temple stands opposite another exalting Emperor Augustus and goddess Victoria. Dressed as a powerful warrior, her statue stands atop. Bordering the forum, remaining foundations represent the city council’s meeting place and a basilica that served as a courthouse.

Our map shows other temples for worshipping Anatolian, mother goddess Magma Mater, and Attis, god of vegetation, as well as a synagogue and Christian chapel. Many large villas remain.

The onsite museum displays much of this neighbourhood’s artwork, including murals, coloured glass mosaics and portraits depicting distinguished citizens. One terra cotta relief depicts the Persian god Mithras. And among the statuary, a bronze Perseus dramatically grasps fearsome Medusa’s severed head. Our favourite sculpture is the white marble Cupid and Amor portraying youths in loving embrace.

Exiting atop a roadway, we pass a bathhouse this time displaying mosaics of mule-drawn cabs. Looking back, green umbrella pines frame the rosy hued brickwork and white marble structures of this ancient site. Visiting Ostia proves extraordinary.

Visit www.vikingcruise.com to check out the Ancient Civilization Cruise itinerary.