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Exploring Maui’s southwest coast

Heavenly Wailea
maui
Maui god mosaic at Grand Wailea Resort.

Maui’s Wailea area (meaning Waters of Goddess Lea) overflows with artful strolls, encounters of the tasty kind, idyllic landlubber walks and heavenly ocean adventures.

Just off “Lea’s” gentle shore, we snorkel, soon admiring rainbows of fish, a green turtle and, out of nowhere, an awesome manta ray. Also, our resort is blessed with a water park. Atop its artificial cliff, we slip into a pool, slide into a long meandering stream and through its grotto bar into a series of large pools. Just past the water volleyball court, a water-elevator returns us to the top to repeat the fun.

Like other resorts, ours offers pleasant walks through lush tropical gardens. Unlike most, Grand Wailea’s original owner developed this resort into a public open-air art gallery for all. Off garden pathways, life-sized sculptures of Hawaiian fishermen throw nets in ponds. And amid red gingers, a small boy catches crabs below a small waterfall.

At its main entrance, a larger-than-life King Kamehameha welcomes visitors. Realistic bronze figures hula in courtyard gardens. An onsite gallery even displays works by Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. Upstairs Fernando Botero’s monumental black sculptures surround an open-air bar. Downstairs a dining room statue portrays Maui Capturing the Sun.

Exploring Wailea Beach Path proves equally divine. Ambling south from the Grand Wailea, we pass a neighbouring resort’s Chinese lion sculptures, just a small sample of its extensive art collection. The pathway heads across a footbridge and continues upward, skirting a white-blossomed naupaka hedge. A knoll rewards our efforts with views of Wailea’s golden shoreline.

Our walk proceeds between manicured lawns and rugged black cliffs to Wailea Point, where we note rock foundations recalling early huts. A bronze plaque there depicts these palm-covered abodes and explains how food remnants and fire pits’ charcoal date Hawaiian occupation from the 14th century. Findings of 19th century English clay pipes, silver U.S. coins, a French cologne bottle and German wine bottle reflect worldly upgrades to these families’ simple island lifestyle. We compare the rich and famous now residing in nearby luxury condos to earlier residents, who enjoyed the same million dollar views for free!

Descending onto Kea Lani Resort’s wide beachfront, we stroll onward to Polo Beach Park, noting its public restrooms, picnic tables, parking and beautiful beach. Returning northward, we notice Hawaii’s endemic happy face spiders. Where else would you find perpetually smiling spiders?  And near our resort, a young boy holds an emerald gecko. “Geckos bring good luck,” I say. “I caught him,” the boy replies, asking, “Want to hold him?” I do … luckily!

At another rocky point along the peaceful pathway, we spot humpback whales breaching in the distance. Arriving from Alaska, they migrate here to calf. Another swank resort and condo community lies discreetly along the hillside. The trail twists past Ulua Park and Mokapu Beach Park to Keawakapu Beach.

Retracing our steps, we head for Kea Lani’s poolside restaurant to celebrate this five-kilometre stroll. Although Wailea’s resorts offer beachside eateries, this one offers a fine Hawaiian menu. We planned to sample traditional plate lunches like those served to early plantation workers. Instead, we share a big Nalu sushi roll filled with fresh crab, avocado and cucumber topped with spicy tuna, crispy Maui onion strings, tobiko, aioli and sweet soy glaze. We also savour grilled fish tacos with spicy mango salsa, a mainstay in Hawaii.

Another day, we walk lengthy Keawakapu Beach from Kihei’s Mana Kai Resort to Ulua Park. Then our stroll continues up along Wailea Beach Pathway to Polo Beach to enjoy a picnic. The round-trip totals nine glorious kilometres.

Wailea provides many enjoyable and extraordinary experiences.

See www.visitmaui.com for travel tips.