Joining others on a Hawaii Forest and Trails twilight adventure, we head toward Kiluea, an active volcano. Our understanding of volcanoes begins in Kona, where Ka’ahumanu Highway slices through vast lava flows. Clumps of golden Egyptian fountain-grass dot this black terrain.
“Hualalai lies eastward. Her 1801 eruption produced these fields of jagged a’a and smooth pahoehoe lava,” explains guide Steve. “Our oldest volcano, Kohala, lies due north, created by a hotspot below the Pacific Plate one million years ago.”
Veering onto Saddle Road, Steve points out two more volcanoes flanking the desolate valley. Inter-national observatories sparkle atop snow-capped Mauna Kea. Mauna Loa, we discover, represents the earth’s greatest volcanic mass.
On the rainy windward side, cane orchids, ohi’a bushes and fern varieties flourish in rich volcanic soils. At Hilo’s Kaumana Caves Park, we descend a steep fern-bordered stairway. Equipped with flashlights, we scale rock piles between smooth black walls and creep along a rippled lava flow. “This cave’s part of a 40-kilometre lava tube formed during Mauna Loa’s 1881 eruption,” Steve notes. “Summoned from Honolulu, Princess Ruth sat near its approaching lava and prayed to fire goddess Pele to spare Hilo. The flow stopped!”
Entering Volcanoes National Park, Steve tells us how UNESCO declared this a natural heritage site, partly due to its religious culture. And many Hawaiians still worship legendary Pele. The religious connection becomes clear inside Jaggar Museum. Two large paintings honour their fiery goddess. Exhibits display Pele’s hair, long golden volcanic glass fibres, and Pele’s tears, droplets of this glass. And a plaque recounts how demigod Kamapua’a changed himself into ama’u and lovingly surrounded Pele’s hale. Halema’uma’u is thus named house (hale) of the fern (ama’u). Outside on the terrace, we focus telescopes on Halema’uma’u, an active caldera since 1983.
From the van, we witness steam rising from volcanic vents, the surrounding rainforest’s giant ferns and several small craters. Steve leads us toward a volcanic rift. I ask about small green ferns dotting the black landscape. “Most are the legendary ama’u. Their red fronds are scars where Pele burned Kamapua’a,” Steve grins. “Those others are Kupukupu. Kupu means wise. So Kupukupu were ferns doubly wise in finding safe niches.”
Passing lava-encrusted trees, we crunch gingerly over the rough lava field to the rift. “Don’t get too close to the edge,” Steve warns. “The porous basalt breaks easily.” A fellow traveller tests its weight, effortlessly lifting a large chunk over his head.
Showing us ohi’a flowers, Steve presents another legend, “Pele fancied a handsome mortal called Ohi’a. Because he turned her down, she changed him into a tree, and showed godly compassion by transforming Lehua, his true love, into its feathery red blossom; she and Ohi’a would be together forever.”
On a rebuilt Chain of Craters Road, Steve manoeuvres its many switchbacks downward. Lava zigzags down a steep escarpment, leaving untouched islands of emerald ama’u fern. “Initially attracted to one another, Kama-pua’a and Pele later squabbled. Pele tried to burn him. But this shape-shifter turned himself into a pig and trotted away. As lava, Pele renewed her attack. So Kama-pua’a morphed into ama’u ferns, hiding in crevasses. Ultimately he became a pigfish, diving into the Pacific and swimming away.”
Parked along the ocean cliffs, Steve leads everyone onto a rocky ledge to view the spectacular sea arches and pounding waves. At nearby picnic tables, we enjoy a glorious sunset while savouring box dinners, aptly including chocolate ‘volcanoes.’
Back at the Jaggar, we gaze on Hale’mau’mau, now illuminated by glowing red magma. Its crack-crack-crackling is easily heard. Is Pele erupting with anger or simply stirring poi on her stove?
See www.hawaii-forest.com for more information on the Hawaii Forest & Trail Sunset Volcano Tour and others.
